Henties Bay tides carry history and holidaymakers

Henties Bay has grown from a small fishing outpost into a popular holiday town. Known for its long beaches and angling tradition, it remains one of the most recognisable destinations for visitors seeking both relaxation and outdoor adventure.

The settlement takes its name from Major Hendrik “Hentie” van der Merwe, who in 1929 discovered the mouth of the Omaruru River while searching for a fishing spot. The area soon became a gathering point for anglers, who set up makeshift huts along the shore. In the 1960s, the first permanent structures were built, and by 1966 the town was proclaimed a holiday settlement. Fishing remains at the heart of its identity, with annual angling competitions drawing participants from across Namibia and South Africa.

Henties Bay lies within the Skeleton Coast landscape, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Namib Desert to the east. The area is marked by long stretches of sandy shoreline, gravel plains and the Omaruru River mouth, which flows to the ocean only in years of high rainfall. The climate is moderated by the Benguela current, bringing cool temperatures and frequent coastal fog.

For visitors, the main attraction is the coastline itself. Anglers line the beaches targeting kabeljou, galjoen, and steenbras, while off-road enthusiasts explore the surrounding desert terrain on 4x4 expeditions. Birdwatchers may spot flamingos and pelicans in the nearby river mouth when water levels permit.

Hauntingly fascinating

Nearby, the Zeila shipwreck adds a hauntingly fascinating element to the area. The wreck of this cargo ship, stranded decades ago on the desert coast, serves as a stark reminder of the perils faced by seafarers navigating these treacherous waters. The rusting hull against the stark desert backdrop creates a surreal, almost otherworldly scene, attracting photographers and adventurers alike.

One of the town’s most recognisable landmarks is the ‘Gallows’. Originally erected in 1978 as a tongue-in-cheek warning against littering, it has since been transformed into a structure depicting a fishing rod and a giant fish. Another popular site is the Jakkalsputz camping area just south of town, which attracts families during the holiday seasons.

To the north lies Cape Cross, home to one of the world’s largest Cape fur seal colonies and the site of a 15th-century stone cross planted by Portuguese navigator Diogo Cão. Visitors are treated to the sights and sounds of seals lounging on rocky shores, barking, and interacting with their young, while dramatic views of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against the rugged coastline make it a photographer’s paradise. Cape Cross highlights the raw, untamed beauty of Namibia’s Skeleton Coast and is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts.

Adventure

Closer to town, the beaches offer opportunities for long walks, sandboarding, and quad-biking, while the desert inland allows for day trips to the Messum Crater and Brandberg Mountain, both noted for their geological formations and rock art.

Henties Bay has a permanent population of around 4 000 residents, but this swells during peak holiday months in December and April, when Namibians from across the country arrive for fishing and coastal leisure. The town has supermarkets, guesthouses, restaurants, and service stations but retains a quieter atmosphere compared to Swakopmund or Walvis Bay.

The local economy revolves around tourism, holiday property, and small-scale services, with fishing pursued both commercially and recreationally. Henties Bay is accessible by tarred road from Swakopmund, about an hour’s drive along the scenic C34 coastal route, and is linked northwards to Torra Bay and the Skeleton Coast National Park. Travellers venturing beyond Henties Bay are advised to carry fuel and water, as distances between service points in the desert can be considerable.

For those seeking a quieter alternative to Namibia’s busier coastal centres, Henties Bay offers space, sea air and an unhurried pace. Its history is tied to fishing, but its attractions extend to desert exploration, cultural landmarks, and seasonal community events. Whether for a weekend competition, a summer holiday, or a stopover en route to the Skeleton Coast, the town continues to deliver what first drew Hentie van der Merwe and generations after him to its shores: the simple draw of the ocean.